See? Kay Ireland specializes in health, fitness and lifestyle topics. Hold the folded edge in place and pin from the right side. Subscribe to the newsletter and receive news, promotions and projects directly in your inbox. (This fabric looks nearly the same on both sides in photos.). I tried with the instructions, with this method, and using a template. I would have liked to try your method.. . First, glue-baste interfacing to one of your collar stand pieces. Complete guide on how to Instantly get your shirt collar to stand up and look perfect all day? The picture below shows the under collar with the upper collar peaking out just a bit. This is called “stitching in the ditch”, because you try to place your seam in the ditch between the two layers, where there is already a seam that connects those two layers. (Good to know if you are using contrast fabrics for your shirt!). You haven't registered for the BERNINA blog yet? There are two basic stand collar styles: the plain stand collar or mandarin, and a rolled or turned-down stand collar. It’s too small of an area to unpick and I’ve already trimmed it too close. Great! This way, the under collar isn’t visible at all and even the seam disappears. I’ll improve for future shirt projects. That makes us really happy. I’ll try to put together a tutorial with the next Granville shirt I sew! Good to know! Match up the centre back seam of the garment with that of the collar. While ironing your shirt, make sure you spray on some starch (you can find it at most supermarkets) on the collar, let it sit for a while, and then pass the iron to make the starch settle in. I’ll show you how to apply it to the neck in the next segment. I didn’t take good photos through this part so I referred back to the book to write this post, and sure enough you are to stretch the uninterfaced collar stand when you sew it to the neckline, just like we did for the collar itself. Among the blog readers who show their finished quilt top on Instagram or in our community, we’re giving away a BERNINA 570 QE! At this point, the collar will begin. For a clean /classic look, sink-stitch (stitch in the ditch) along the neckline seam to … Run the iron over the crease to stiffen. This makes it easier to trim the allowances later. Sewing a shirt collar isn’t difficult, but it takes a little bit of patience, time and sewing experience. Before going on, you can baste the layers together; make sure the edges align this time and secure with stitch length of 4-5. When you are finished with sewing, trim the seam allowance at the collar points diagonally in a shallow angle, as close to the seam at the point as possible. Thanks Tasia , your posts are really helpful ! Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. We’ll sew the stand to the shirt body, and then attach the collar to the stand. To integrate this banner into your blog help yourself with the prepared source code. From shop DYFCrafts. Pin and tack it in place on the inner collar stand. It was either have posts now, or wait until I had time to resew them, and who knows how long that would be :) You need to prepare your collar stand pieces with a bit of ironing. I will perfect it first on a cheaper fabric. High Quality Polyester Stand-up Collar T-shirt, T-Shirt for Ladies, Women T-Shirt, Cool Shirt for Women DYFCrafts. I’d advise you to sew with the outer stand facing upwards and using the seam that you already sewed as a guide – you can sew just right over this existing seam. Be careful not to catch the top collar in the process. You can decide not to use fusible interfacing but if you want to add to your collar a crisp look and give it some extra support, we recommend interfacing your pieces. BERNINA (That’s the one on the left in the photo below.). Then draw in the … 64. I love these posts that show different... Jayne Reed: My mat's a little thick, too, and I ended up trim... Jayne Reed: I'm an older lady who made this in the senior cen... Lena: I think its hard to find a good fabric here in Swe... Sue @ A Colourful Canvas: Hey...thanks for the mention Lili! Doesn’t it look nice? The wrong side should be up, facing you. You won’t be able to sew very far, but that’s okay, we just want to create a really neat look for the first few centimeters of the stand. The fold of fabric needs to sit on the wrong side of the collar stand. Instead we make the collar, then attach the stand to the shirt, then insert the collar into the stand. Your email address will not be published. Ideally, the upper collar should have a little access fabric, creating a little “bubble” between the under collar. Then before you wear the shirt, press the collar with an iron so that you reinforce the "stand up" position. Put the collar away again. I admit, a collar is a little bit of work, especially if you’re sewing one for the first time. Register now for free and become part of the BERNINA community. That includes a classic, menswear inspired shirt collar. These will help to ensure that the collar is centered before you sew. There are a couple of methods to do this. Pin the collar between the two collar pieces. So if it’s your first collar, you can practice by leaving away some of the refinements first. Mark according to your pattern and sew with the buttonhole program of your sewing machine. It’s so beautiful and bright and not too flowery. Click here to create your free account. Most sewing patterns have only one piece for the collar itself. Think of a shirt collar. We developed these styles specifically to combat floppy collars. 4.3 out of 5 stars 30. At this point, the collar will begin. Stitch shirt to collar at 5/8″ seam allowance and press seam up. God bless you. I really like the stretching technique for the top collar, it’s made it curve so nicely. Now it’s time to turn the collar. This is much easier to do on the white, interfaced side. I lined up the collar in the middle, so it’s centered evenly over centre back. They just stand up. Spray the collar as it lies in its creased position. Straight Collars: These are the basic shirt collar. Otherwise the photos are excellent as well as your commentary. I’d taken the photos while sewing the shirt, and wrote up the posts after the fact using the photos I’d already taken. Because the front seam of the collar is at an angle, you shouldn’t pin the collar like in the picture, beginning of collar to the mark of the center front. $22.82 $ 22. 1. Nov 16, 2020 - Explore Penny Reynolds's board "SEWING COLLARS", followed by 469 people on Pinterest. These are level of stiffness, height, size, and spread. Flip it around and sew the other side from centre back to the end. You made sewing shirt collar look so easy. I trim the seam allowances to about 3 mm and a little more at the rounded front seams of the collar stand. This way to the community: Community section Sugaridoo-Quilt-Along. We want to be measuring the STITCHLINE, not the pattern edge. That’s the exact middle of the garment where the button placket and by extension the collar stand will overlap. It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Press the bottom seam up 5/8″, wrong sides together. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. Join the Sugaridoo Quilt Along! This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. Dale Davidson/Demand Media . The Stand Up Front Placket and Stand Up French Front have the same look as their standard counterparts, but feature a special stiff, fused interlining in both the front and back (button) side of the placket that allows the collar to stand up incredibly well. Some patterns come with different pieces for the upper and under collar, which means less work for you, because the top collar actually needs to be just a tiny bit bigger than the under collar. I like it because you get to place the collar into the stand, getting it right where you want it, rather than sewing the collar-stand unit to the shirt and hoping it was in the right place to begin with. Below is a look at the inner stand with the outer stand peaking out – almost the same trick I apply at the collar. You’ll need a piece of ribbon 4cm longer than your collar stand. Now I have the middle and the beginning of the seam. Place one side on top of the other, matching stand positions and collar angles. Put the collar away again. After all that, my two sides aren’t completely perfect. Staystitch the neckline of your shirt and clip along the staystitching, making sure not to cut the staystitching thread. Darn! I like to press the collar so that the upper collar juts out a smidge, about 1 mm. Imagine a finished collar: the top collar needs to roll over the under collar. Oct 13, 2012 - Craftster.org is an online community for crafts and DIY projects where you can find loads of ideas, advice, and inspiration. If everything looks good so far, you can trim away the seam allowance in this area, again using a shallow angle. I love to make shirts like this but have not tried this method for the collar, but I will now. Glad they’re helpful! Start with your collar piece in main fabric, and one shirt collar piece cut from interfacing. This gives the collar a nice crispness and some stand, but it shouldn’t make the fabric too stiff – the collar won’t lay smoothly when it is. By your continued use of this site you accept such use. When finished with pinning, sew the seam with your seam allowance. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. I understand that BERNINA will process my comments as well as my first and last name for publication and direct marketing purposes and link these to information collected by BERNINA for direct marketing purposes or information derived from the comments (such as captions, tags). This little rounded area, from pin to where we stopped our stitching at the edge of the front band, is the last part we’ll sew. Don’t sew past the front bands, stop as soon as you reach the edge of the front band. FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. if you want to publish pictures via the comment function, please log in to the blog first. Learn how to stop your shirt collar from folding. Next, clip the seam allowances as close to the seam as possible. It looks like you might have a perfect way to sew this band on and have sharp corners. Use lots of pins, too. See photo 7. Sign up for the BERNINA blog newsletter and stay informed about our latest blog posts, freebies and much more! You are pinning the right side of your collar stand to the right side of your shirt neckline. Use Spray Starch. $71.49 $ 71. Attach piece #3 to the collar by the straight edge, and back tack at the first few, and last stitches. My stand is now 6 layers thick and will be A Stand to be reckoned with once finished. It’s easy to attach a ribbon to your inner collar stand to make your shirt more special but it also gives the collar stand more stability and is used in men’s shirts to reduce wear. Sew the collar pieces together, using a straight stitch and the seam allowance according to the pattern piece. 49. […] use the instructions for the construction. You still have a collar stand piece, this one non-interfaced. Make sure the center back notches match up. I read them, they were standard and I think that the series of post written by Tasia provides great information if you are into the Coffin’s method. My collar stand is longer on one side, the uninterfaced side. collar, collar stand, collar stand template, granville shirt, shirtmaking, shirts, Interesting… It is different from how I’m used to sew the collar and colla stand. ps. This is the lower edge of your collar stand. This means it needs to be a little bit longer than the under collar so the latter doesn’t peek out. I know it should be simple, but can you please clarify the interfacing and folding of the right and left bottom-strips? This means you have to spread the excess amount of fabric of the upper collar evenly. I am really looking forward to trying it out, but not on my Liberty fabric. The first layer of the collar stand is now secure, let’s go on with the counterpart that still needs our attention. Use a thin but blunt object to turn the collar points, like a bone folder or big knitting needle. We use cookies to improve your experience. Turn inside out and make sure everything looks good and you didn’t catch fabric you weren’t supposed to. If you mark the seam allowance on the collar, you’ll want the center front to meet the very beginning of this seam line. Lay the collar on the collar stand and mark each end of the collar. Pin the collar between the two collar pieces. Je n’étais pas du tout convaincue au début par cette technique de montage alambiquée mais […], […] the collar: Sewaholic blog for the David Page Coffin […], Sewing projects, tips and inspiration for the modern seamstress and the sewing blog of Sewaholic Patterns, How To Widen a Sleeve (Full Bicep Adjustment), Fraser Sweatshirt: Sewing the Set-In Collar, Shirtmaking: Completing Our Collar and Collar Stand, Moooaaar Shirts – Sewaholic Granville, a review – Sewing Tidbits, Sewing a Collar Stand, The Shirtmaking Way, (Chemise) #6 Granville au printemps | Une parisienne en Helvétie, Floral Voile Shirt: Burda 6849 - Mood Sewing Network, Floral Riot, Burda 6849 from Mood Fabrics NY | Sew Busy Lizzy. no. it is always too long and ends up looking weird. Collar Method 1 - Add Up Neckline Length & Draw. Your fabric makes me happy! It seemed to work pretty well, but now I wish I had waited a bit for your post, since you have such nice pictures. Shirts for Women Stand-Up Collar Vintage Victoria Ruffle Long Sleeve. They also look great on a feminine shirt dress or as a contrast on casual clothes, like my oversize dress “Carrie” (link to my personal sewing blog). RaanPahMuang Formal Kurta Long Sleeve Stand Up Collar Button Down Dashiki Shirt. Now lay the other collar stand on top of the neckline, from the inside of the shirt. The Kooples Men's Plain Cotton Dress Shirt with a Stand-up Collar. maybe with final dimensions after folding and sewing? Pin non-interfaced band collar to the interfaced collar, right sides together. Use the edge of the under collar as the guide. The placket is the part I’m thinking of where the Liberty print would be too distracting. I lined up the collar in the middle, so it’s centered evenly over centre back. Check out all posts on shirtmaking here! I can revoke my consent to the promotional use of my data at any time and at no cost.*. Before you sew your collar stand to your shirt, check that the two sides are perfectly even. Cut one collar stand and one collar fall pieces in fusible interfacing but cut away the seam allowances to eliminate bulk in the finished garment. You can of course mark the seam line if you want more guidance. Finger press the seam down near the edge of the shirt on either side. Turn the shirt over, spray the other side of the collar with starch and iron it in the same fashion. Copyright © 2008-2020 BERNINA International AG | System powered by Inpsyde. Then I poked a pin into the collar stand where the collar stand ends. I struggled with my first shirt collar and stand, but will try again following your great tutorial ! I do wonder if I should press in between somewhere or perhaps grade the seam before folding the standing parts upwards. You’ll need your collar pieces x2 and the collar stand pieces x2. You are a great inspiration and a wonderful entrepreneur. Trim very close to your stitching, about 1/8″ (3mm) away. I was supposed to cut two identical ones. Lay the collar on the collar stand and mark each end of the collar. The turned-down collar is folded down like a turtleneck and it has to be wider (or taller) in order to allow enough length for this fold. You are welcome to copy this banner and use it on your blog or social media channels. The prepared source code will help you to integrate the banner into your blog. The underside rolls out too much on the right side of the collar stand. Again, I like to trim the seam allowances here, so I sew this seam twice to prevent fraying, reduce bulk and help the pieces to lay smoother. Riders by Lee Indigo Women’s Plus Size Long Sleeve Front Fleece Shirt Stand Up Collar. BERNINA Corporate Blog - top news of the world's leading manufacturer of sewing machines and quilting machines. This helps attaching the stand with a clean look without bulk. I have always been in love with androgynous fashion styles. I’ll try that for future projects. I always start at the center back, making sure all three layers (collar stand – finished collar – collar stand) align. Hi! I love this pattern. You want to join the Sugaridoo-Quilt-Along? You can start where the seam we did on the inside ends. Thank you so very much for the time and effort you put into this excellent tutorial. Make sure to fold it in enough so that the folded seam allowance will be caught by the seam, but the folded edge needs to lie over the seam that attaches the outer stand to the neck. Time to pin the rest of the seam inbetween my “guide pins”. It is usually a small high stand collar. Use gently pressure to iron the collar, working from the middle of the collar out to the ends. Fold the inner collar stand over, so both stand pieces are facing right sides with the front piece between them. Before you sew your collar to your collar stand, check again that both sides are even. As you can see in the picture below, the clippings in the one layer are offset from the other layer. My tips and techniques are for a clean, professional finish. Women and upturned blouse collars [ Write a post] This is a place for people who adore to see women wearing blouses or shirts with the collar turned up. The collar stand pattern pieces have a little mark at the center front. Repeat with the other side of the collar stand. As you might have guessed, the difference is in the width of the collar itself. FREE Shipping by Amazon. Portrait collar . Before we begin to look at the wide variety of collar styles available, it’s useful to consider the various parameters that influence how a collar looks. Now I just have to get my sewing machine back from the store that is servicing it. Hi Tasia, Thanks for the remainder of the instructions for the shirt collar. So that’s what we’re doing: preparing the collar only. 82. Next, I pin the front. To have a seam that’s beautiful on the inside too (in case you want to wear the collar open some time), I close the first few centimeters of the inner collar stand seam from the inside. Turn the stand inside out and press the seams. Because the seam allowances need to be trimmed, I like to sew this seam twice to secure the fabric from fraying. Lie your work down, right side up, and start to stitch directly in the seam that attaches stand and neck. I found it easiest to work with the clipped side up, so the clips didn’t flip backwards and get caught in the seamline. More shirtmaking information today. Thanks for doing these posts. Lay your work down in front of you. Fold it down and press onto the ironing board. We’re on the home stretch now! Flat Collar - lays flat on the garment; Shirt Collar - has a stand, either separate or built-in, that raises the collar off the neckline; Standing Collar - vertical collar, essentially a collar stand without a collar; Shirt Collar Construction - Video 4:04. Lay the right side of the collar stand down, towards the shirt. $16.99 $ 16. With all notches and markings matching, pin the lower edge of the stand to the neckline of the shirt through all three thicknesses. Make sure to match up any notches in the collar and neckline. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of one of your collar fall pieces, and one of the coll… Good steps but I agree with Barbara that it’s hard to see what’s what with the print. I’ll make an educated guess and experiment. I love precision sewing. Buy no matter what I do, I get the collar stand wrong. The other seam allowances shouldn’t be longer than 1 cm. See more ideas about sewing collars, sewing, sewing patterns. For people who love women wearing blouses or shirts with the collar turned up. When sewing, I start/end at the point where the collar stand seam starts and don’t sew directly to the edge of the stand. If you don't have any collar stays around, they should be about 0.9 x 6.4cm (3/8" x 2 1/2") before being shaped. Change a Shirt Collar Into a Mandarin Collar With NO Sewing: Living in a hot climate, I love wearing light weight shirts and blouses, but I hate the collars on them. collar, shirt, shirt collar. How to do it? I find it hard to see what’s what! Contribute and be creative! This post is kind of long already, so I’ll write about sewing the collar into the stand in a separate post. They always need to be ironed for one, and they can look and feel sloppy too. Pussy Bow collar / Tie neck collar; Turned up collar; Barrymore Collar; This is a shirt collar with long tapered points. Click here to sign in. Ofer. Today I will show how I constructed the collar stand using the Shirtmaking method. In the second segment of this collar tutorial, we’ll apply the collar stand. Step 7 Now turn the collar-stand inside out again, place it upside down, and pull the shirt through the collar opening of the stand. I pin the front of my collar stand so that my very very first stitch of that seam lays directly next to the edge of my finished button placket (the yellow edge). Pin the collar to the shirt’s neckline. Ok! For this pattern, the collar pieces are the same. It was really nice to meet you on Saturday at Fabrics Etc. Together with Irene from Sugaridoo you sew a colorful Mystery-Quilt. Each blog post introduces a new series of the quilt.