Framing Guideline: Grid 9 (personal preference, but I find Grid 24 too distracting and HD Framing unhelpful for stills). Card Slot Setting (Still Image): Sequential. Function (Fn) Setting: Lets you assign custom functions to six FN buttons, AE-L, AF-ON, as well as touch controls and the rear dial. Autorotate Displays: Whether or not the EVF information display rotates as you change camera orientation. I am quite happy with the camera, more so than I expected. Making slow-motion recordings can be made with a … You can also set it to detect your eye, switching between the rear LCD and the viewfinder when you look through the viewfinder, or disabling the rear LCD entirely and only turning on the viewfinder when you look through it. You can adjust your personal Q menu in the “Edit/Save Quick Menu” setting in the X-H1’s Set Up menu. I tried your settings and it worked like a charm. Large Indicators Display Setting: Pick which settings and icons will be increased in size when you have Large Indicators Mode turned on. Fujifilm established itself as one of the main mirrorless players back in 2013 with the release of the X-Pro1 and has since gone from strength to strength with popular models such as the X-T1, X-T2 and most recently, the flagship X-H1.. Store AF Mode by Orientation: For storing focus points differently when shooting vertical vs horizontal. By placing the steam against a dark wall, I am able to show it clearly. If we use front light, the colour will be visible, but the texture will not as there are no shadows to help us understand depth. Are you aware of a way to use the 10 second timer to capture a short burst of images rather than a single image. In this type of light, I often use spot metering to establish a base exposure and then work in manual exposure mode so I can vary my composition without having to worry about the exposure changing. I’m coming late to the XH-1 game, having purchased it used about a month ago. FUJIFILM X-H1 Owner’s Manual. Hi Nasim! His desire to connect with and document the cultures of Asia led him to self fund a 128 page book about the lives of the Lai Tu Chin people of Myanmar. For some reason, Fujifilm have decided to restrict the interlock spot AE and focus area option to the single and continuous focus modes. This makes metering and exposure decisions very easy. I leave mine Off. Rear Command Dial: Can serve a number of functions, including changing shutter speed if you have the top shutter speed dial set to T. You can also scroll this wheel to change the size of your autofocus zone once you press in the joystick. Off when you don’t need flash, typically TTL when you do (through-the-lens automatic flash). This hit my subject directly and was softened by the ever-present haze of a Yangon sunset. Camera sensors are only able to hold a limited range of light at any given time. I have been thinking about purchasing it but now I am having second thoughts as I’m concerned the line will be discontinued. The XF50mm F/1.0 R WR: Is This the “ONE” for You? Fujifilm Announces Pixel Shift, Multi-Shot Function Firmware Update for GFX100, Fujifilm Introduces FUJINON XF10-24mmF4 R OIS WR Lens, Fujifilm Introduces X-S10 Mirrorless Digital Camera. Movie Or maybe they will just add in camera stabilization to the next xt camera? I set mine to Eye Sensor + LCD Image Disp, so that the camera automatically switches between EVF and LCD. In this case your article has been very helpful! I tend to leave mine at Face On/Eye Auto, which detects and focuses on the person’s face and the nearest eye. Shutter Sound: I prefer the first sound because I find it to be the most realistic. Use this mode when shooting moving subjects. Large Indicators Mode (EVF/OVF): Increase the size of information displayed in the viewfinder (both OVF and EVF). Using the exposure preview, you are able to very quickly create a pure silhouette. Page 24: The Drive Dial The Drive Dial Rotate the dial to choose from the follow- ing the drive modes. It gives you more flexibility than Auto, which only allows you to select one of the Auto Settings you created earlier. The most important thing is that you feel your way through an exposure. If you’re taking pictures in such a dark scene that your Max Sensitivity and Min Shutter Speed values have already been reached, the X-H1 will use longer shutter speeds rather than increase ISO any further. The X-H1 of course features the same AF-C Custom Settings that debuted with the X … Note that this light has an almost ring-light-like quality about it. You can also select the shooting mode and metering mode. Playback Volume: For playing back movies. Shutter Type: E-Front + Mechanical + Electronic. Sync Terminal: For connecting external flash units. The technical part is the camera’s job. ISO Auto Setting: Lets you adjust the behavior of Auto ISO. You need to work much harder on a cloudy day to make your composition and moments stand out as background and foreground elements that could be hidden or accentuated with light are now in exactly the same light as your subject. Flash … I customize this for each camera I own in order to reduce duplicate file names from multiple cameras. To track subjects across a smaller portion of the frame, but not just a single point, use Zone and change its size to suit your needs by pressing in the joystick and then turning the rear dial to change the size of your focusing zone. It is sure to reach end of life before the X-H1 does, and there’s no telling what software improvements Fuji has in development. View and Download FujiFilm X-H1 owner's manual online. “Focus Check” doesn’t work in Continuous Servo Autofocus mode, and neither does manual focus. Interlock Spot AE & Focus Area: On, since it means that your metering system (when using spot metering) bases its reading upon the focus point, not a small point in the center of your frame. If you do this, you will lose detail and contrast in your foreground subject and create a silhouette. ... Touch Screen Mode. This is the best mode to use when your subject is stationary. This one is important; left On, your vertical photos will automatically rotate during image review, taking up a smaller portion of the LCD. Exposure Compensation Button: Hold this button and rotate the rear dial to adjust. The X-Pro2 and X-Pro3 have a similar feature called the Electronic Rangefinder. The giant softbox in the sky gives us an all-encompassing soft light to work with. First Steps. Bracketing. For example, in the Set Up Menu, set “ISO Dial Setting (A)” to “Command” (Set Up -> Button/Dial Setting) and you can use this command dial to change your ISO settings any time you have the top ISO dial set to A (Auto). AF-C Custom Settings: The default value of 1 (Multi Purpose) works well for most subjects. Select Custom Setting: Selects among the custom settings you create from the Edit/Save Custom Setting menu option below. These all have their uses, and will work equally well for those who understand their use. Manual Focus zoom magnification. Furthermore should we disable the lens IS (in the lens that do have it), just as we do on a DSLR? Having come from a long line of Fujifilm cameras, each model does take a bit of orientation to get the most out of the camera. If the light is coming from a low angle, you may find your shadow encroaching on the image. Face/Eye Detection Setting: Depends upon your subject, but you have plenty of options here. Autorotate PB: Off. Depending on what you are shooting, you might want to adjust this setting. Let’s start with the simplest form of light to work in: a cloudy day. Sequence Setting -> “- 0 +”, Self-Timer: Off for taking photos without a delay, 2 seconds for tripod-based landscape work, 10 seconds when you need to run in front of the camera and join a group photo. If anybody has the 411, that would be awesome! The FUJIFILM X-H1 features the "ETERNA" mode, a new Film Simulation mode suitable for video recording, simulating the output of cinematographic films. The Fujifilm X-T200 is a mid-range mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera announced on January 22, 2020. I keep it at default “Drive” value. Your article prompted a question I have had on settings / X-H1 camera capabilities for a somewhat mundane use case, using the X-H1 camera on a tripod to take family group shots at family get togethers. Changing camera metering mode is really easy – just rotate the sub-dial switch on the bottom of the Shutter Speed dial and you can toggle between Spot, Center-Weighted, Average and 256-zone TTL Multi modes. AF Point Display: This only matters when you are in Zone or Wide/Tracking AF Modes, not Single Point. One concern when working in front light is your own shadow. Consider the bark of a tree. When shooting in shade, I like to expose for the side of my subject that is getting the most light at then let the shadows fall where they will. Many thanks for this excellent article. Interval Timer Shooting: For taking timelapses. This is another personal preference; I am a Nikon shooter, so I prefer clockwise. AF-S Priority Selection: Release. ISO Dial Setting (A): Command, which switches all ISO adjustments to the front command dial any time “A” is selected on the top ISO dial. As they say, “You don’t know what you don’t know”. You should be conscious of both of these. It’s worth doing this from time to time, especially if you start seeing new hot pixels appear in your images. We sell Fujifilm X-H1 24.3 Megapixel Digital Camera - Body $1299.0000 for the lowest prices anywhere. However, it can be quite spastic and distracting, so I tend to leave it off. Different types of light require different approaches and different tools to work with them. By this, I mean that if you looked down on the camera from above, you can see f/stop, shutter and ISO settings. For 100% silent operation, turn this off and enable electronic shutter only (from “Shutter Type” under the Shooting Setting menu). It lets you select the interval between shots and the total number of photos. Sidelight is a great way to create the illusion of depth in your photographs. Time to get started! For me, side light is most beautiful when I expose for the highlights. Cycle the Viewfinder Selector on the front of the camera until the ERF appears in the lower-right of the OVF. Fujifilm offers us 4 different metering (photometry) modes: spot, centre-weighted, multi, and average. Turn the rear dial to change the size of your focusing zone. Instant AF Setting: Even when you are in manual focus mode on the X-H1, you will have the ability to autofocus by pressing the AE-L button. Doing this and allowing the shadows to fall dark gives a sense of depth we could not get with other types of light. View Mode Button: For switching between EVF and LCD. P.S. Meanwhile the 'Eterna/Cinema' Film simulation is designed to give 'soft,' low-saturation footage with low contrast but distinct shadows. I find that working in full manual mode for situations with backlight is the most effective way to get consistent exposures as even the slightest movements can wreak havoc on your metering system. As a H1 owner (and T3) I found this particularly helpful. If the light in the scene is quite even, multi or average metering will also work well and using the exposure compensation dial will be all I need to get consistent exposures. Frequently, have to repeat the process multiple times to try to catch everybody with good expressions. Master Setting: Choose a flash group for a hotshoe-mounted flash, or turn it off and light the photo entirely with off-camera flash. Here we will assume that you have your EVF set to display the resulting exposure in manual mode as well as in any of the program modes. This is the mode I tend to use the most on my X-H1. With a revised design, improved video specs and bumps to performance in numerous areas, the X-H1 certainly looks to be the most capable and versatile X Series camera to date. Upload. How to measure light and effectively record it to convey a feeling has been the goal for photographers from the start. Think about a tree casting shade on a grassy area. Focus Ring: The direction you rotate the focus ring, as viewed from behind the camera, to focus toward infinity. However, it is also bouncing off the grassy area around the tree and any other nearby objects. Focus Lever Setting: Affects whether moving the joystick changes autofocus points. I’m glad to have searched to find your very, very helpful article. Lamp: AF-Assist Illuminator shines light when there is not enough ambient light for focusing, or when self-timer is engaged. CH Setting: Channel for master and remote flash communication, Movie AF Mode: Area (lets you select a more specific autofocus point), Date/Time: To change the camera’s internal clock, Time Difference: To tell the X-H1 when you are in a different time zone and adjust the internal clock accordingly, My Menu Settings: Add, rank, and remove items from your “My Menu” – very useful. Sample Images Intro Grip Specs Performance Compared User's Guide Recommendations More Fujifilm X-H1 (23.8 oz./674g with battery and card, $999 new or about $850 used if you know How to Win at eBay) and Fujifilm 16mm f/2.8. The Fujifilm X-H1 comes with sixteen Film Simulation modes, which Fujifilm has uniquely created based on the color-presentation philosophy and know-how the company has developed through more than 80 years of photo film production. The FUJIFILM X-H1 is the first X Series model to include the latest 5-axis in-body image stabilization (IBIS), which has a maximum of 5.5 stops (*1) as well as a flicker reduction mode which enhances the quality of indoor sports photography. Reset: Lets you reset all Shooting menu or Set Up menu settings. If you want special control to only focus on the left or right eye, this is where you would do so. I leave it On. AE Bkt -> 3 Frames, 1 EV Step. You don’t need to create these unless you are shooting JPEG, or you want to affect how the in-camera preview of images appear when you review them. AF Illuminator: On, shines a light to help focus on nearby objects in dark environments. Because the light is so even on cloudy days, I like to work in multi or average metering mode on my Fujifilm bodies. The Fuji X-H1 offers several improvements over its predecessor, the X-T2.It’s the first X-series camera to feature five-axis in-body image stabilization, and it has more robust video options, an updated 325-point autofocus system, flicker reduction, an electronic shutter, a higher-resolution EVF, and an updated body design based on photographer feedback. “Max Sensitivity” is the highest ISO value that the X-H1 will use, no matter what. We'll also find out which metering mode Omar uses the most. Some will prefer this option to be “Focus” to make sure the X-H1 believes it is focused properly before it allows you to take a photo. You can disable the viewfinder entirely, or enable it exclusively (disabling the rear LCD). The only ways to really avoid this is to lower your camera, tilt your camera up, or use a longer focal length to create a tighter composition. URL of this page: ... Shutter speed Sensitivity The Metering Dial Rotate the dial to choose the metering mode. Edit File Name: You can give your photos custom file names to start the image, such as FUJ_0001. Thank you for this, as I have now discovered many settings of which before I was unaware. Typically, when shooting into backlight, you will be seeing more dynamic range than your camera can record in a single frame. Pre-AF: This is continuous autofocus, prior to taking the photo, on the point you select. Download. If contrast is high, it is important to note that exposing for your highlights may render your shadows irrecoverable. It gets out of the way and lets me focus on my vision as a photographer. Connection Setting: Set your preferences for connecting the X-H1 to other devices, including a phone. Available with seamless streaming across your devices. ISO Setting / Drive Dial: Rotate this dial to change your. Pixel Mapping: Tells the X-H1 to read its own sensor for hot pixels in order to subtract them from photos (including RAW). I almost always leave it on, as otherwise, it can be difficult to tell which areas of the photo are as sharp as possible, even with something like focus peaking enabled. Film Basis can be too relaxed about what counts as in focus versus not in focus. Left, Down, and Right Arrow Buttons: Fully customizable function buttons, assigned via the “Function (Fn) Setting” options in the Set Up menu (under the “Button/Dial Setting” header), DISP/Back: Changes the information displayed on your LCD or viewfinder while taking photos, or to go back when navigating in the X-H1’s menu system, Image Size: Grayed-out (because of shooting RAW); when shooting JPEG pick “L 3:2” for maximum size, Film Simulation: Standard (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Grain Effect: Off (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Dynamic Range: DR 100% (doesn’t affect RAW photo), White Balance: Auto (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Highlight Tone: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Shadow Tone: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Noise Reduction: 0 (doesn’t affect RAW photo), Long Exposure NR: For long exposures, the camera will take two photos: one of the actual scene, and another with the shutter curtain closed that is simply a “dark frame.” The dark frame will still have some, Color Space: Adobe RGB (doesn’t affect RAW photo, but a bit more accurate for histograms than sRGB). “Default Sensitivity” is the ISO that the X-H1 will attempt to use. Continuous Shooting (Burst Mode) Advanced Filters. “Focus Check” doesn’t work in Continuous Servo Autofocus mode, and neither does manual focus. As of September 2019, oddly you can get the X-H1 with the VPB-XH1 Vertical Power Gripas a kit (camera & grip weigh 34.3 oz./972g with card and one battery) at a deep package discount for less … Both are valid and both have their own set of challenges. The FUJIFILM X-H1 is the first camera in the X Series to include ETERNA, a new film simulation ideal for shooting movies. It simply shows your focusing points, which some photographers will find helpful and others distracting. By default, holding it down locks exposure. Again, the EVF makes this tricky exposure a breeze. I set my X-H1 to On/Off Switch (S) to get the latter behavior, since I don’t like holding down the button in order to lock autofocus. How we deal with that constraint in different circumstances is a big part of the art of photography. The camera can do everything well, though it is not best in class in any one thing. 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Focus Area: Shows all focus points and lets you select yours, akin to pressing in the joystick. bigger. We’ll look at cloudy days, shade, front light (light coming from directly in front of your subject / behind you), side light (light coming from the left or right of your camera position, and backlight (light coming from behind the subject). He is recognized as one of the leading educators in the photography industry, conducting workshops, producing educational videos and frequently writing content for Photography Life. I am wondering if anybody has heard any news concerning the xh1 and it being discontinued (at least on B&H). It is easy for someone who comes across this camera for the first time to be a bit confused by all the options, which is why I will run through them all in this article. In this video we will take a look at the manual and see how our fuji meters a scene. And in playback mode, push in this dial to instantly jump to magnified view. Today, I will mostly talk about spot and multi (although in most cases, multi and average will produce almost the same result). Diopter Adjustment Control: Adjust diopter to make viewfinder clearer and tailored to your eyes. The screen gives you the equivalent of four extra programmable function buttons, invoked by swiping left, right, up or down. In this case, the building opposite was grey cement and offered a beautiful directional light without any significant colour-cast. Focus/Exposure Lock. I prefer using the touchscreen to select a focus point and focus on it. Recommended with backlit subjects and in other cases in which the background is much brighter or darker than the main subject. His work has been seen in global publications, as well as featured by Nikon Asia. This is thanks to the overcast day we had. It was a camera that nobody asked for, but everyone could see and appreciate what Fujifilm was trying to do. Your Fuji X-T20 appears to do the same thing in Multi metering mode. During the post-production process, you can push and pull parts of the exposure as far as you need to without image degradation. This is where the EVF and Fujifilm’s excellent raw files come in handy. Exposure Compensation. Z6 II vs. Z7 II – advice on which one better for enthusiast level, To watermark or not to watermark on prints. https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/fuji-x-t4/fuji-x-t4A.HTM LED Light Setting: Lets you use the video light on your flash to act as a focus assist beam and/or a catchlight. Shade may seem similar to a cloudy day when you first look at it but on closer inspection, it is quite different. This is called the sensor’s dynamic range and is measured in stops of light. Hopefully you have found all the recommended settings above to be useful for setting up your Fuji X-H1! I prefer to have the camera take a photo when I click the shutter. I’m also the owner of an X-H1 which acts as my second camera (being my D810 the first one…) and there is a question that has been troubling me since I’ve acquired this Fuji camera. Watch a free lesson today. 61 pages thoroughly covering all items updated in firmware 2.0 and 2.10 – in the same comprehensive, easy to read style as the eBook by Tony Phillips. This chooses whether the exposure is locked at the prior metered exposure or by metering via a set of pre-flashes. The camera is capable of recording video in 4K resolution in 30 fps.It can be had in either camera body only, or with the 15–45 mm f /3.5-5.6 OIS PZ lens. Once you have your exposure for your subject set, everything else falls into place and because of the even light, does not produce more dynamic range than your Fujifilm camera can handle. On my X-T20, and from what I understand almost every model prior to the X-T4, the reference point for spot metering could be adjusted using the focus area while in manual focus mode. Shutter Volume: Off if you want only noises from the mechanical shutter. Edit/Save Quick Menu: A very useful option to adjust the layout and content of the Quick Menu (accessed by pressing the Q button). Ergonomically, Fuji incorporated a number of features from the high-end GFX cameras, so in a way, it can be thought of as a mini-GFX. Function Button (Fn2): Customizable. Please keep in mind that most of these settings are personal preferences, and it is not a problem if your own preferences are different; after all, Fuji included all these options for a reason, and not everyone will set up their camera the same way. Although there are many more types of light and a multitude of ways to work with them, I hope that this article has been useful to some of you as you begin to use light and understand how your camera reacts to it as well as how you can manipulate that. So, feel free to take these as a starting point, but don’t be afraid to pick different settings for yourself as needed. S: Single Servo Autofocus, where the X-H1 focuses once and locks down after it has acquired focus. Focus Check: This is only used when you are in manual focus mode (accessed via the switch on the side of the camera) or single-servo autofocus and have already focused. Note that due to a design flaw on Fuji cameras, you need to be shooting RAW + JPEG rather than just RAW if you want to magnify your photos to 100% in playback mode. Similar to other Fuji X-series cameras, the X-H1 has a number of dials, buttons, and controls that perform different functions. The X-H1 lets you choose different file names for sRGB and Adobe RGB images. When On, saves two copies of a photo when redeye reduction is enabled (one without the reduction applied). If you want to track subjects, it is best to use Wide/Tracking and then enable continuous autofocus via the switch on the left of the camera. M: Manual Focus, although you can still press the AE-L button to autofocus, you can’t track a subject across the frame when focusing this way. This is an update to “The Complete Guide to Fujifilm’s X-T2” eBook by Tony Phillips. : I loved your work in Uzbekistan! If you are looking to maintain detail in your subject, the process will require a more careful approach, especially if you want to keep detail in the background as well. Thank you for this Nasim. Set to “Push Joystick to Unlock,” you can only start moving your autofocus points when you push in the joystick once. There are a lot of options here, and it’s all personal preference, but I recommend turning off anything that is unnecessary for your work simply to eliminate distractions. Share. Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube. Copyright info: Fill in your information in case you lose your camera or it gets stolen. Shop 42nd Street Photo online 24/7 or visit our New York City camera store for the best prices on digital cameras, camcorders, audio and video electronics. Shade is much more directional than a cloudy sky. That’s very helpful to understand some of the setup options. Custom Setting: Choose the information displayed in the optical viewfinder and the EVF/rear LCD. What’s New. Set it to “Off” if you don’t want any display at all, and 0.5, 1.5, or Continuous if you want some length of post-capture image display. Disp. AF-C Custom Setting. By checking this box I consent to the use of my information, as detailed in the Privacy Policy. As noted, the X-T2 is on version 4 of it’s firmware, and closing in on 2 years old. Take some of these tips into your next shoot and work with them. I set mine to “On”. AE/AF-L Lock Mode: Determines whether the AE-L button must be held down continually in order to lock your settings, or whether it locks after one press and stays until you press the button a second time. Fujifilm has stuck with its TTL 256-zone metering system for the X-H1 – it's a system that's been used in the majority of X Series cameras, and it's a consistent performer. Only relevant when aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are all set manually. Great work Nasim. Command Dial Setting: (1) Aperture, (2) ISO, (3) None, (Rear) SS, (EC) Rear Command Dial. Top LCD Backlight Button: Used to switch the top LCD from black to white background. Composition and moment both become extremely important. With a DSLR, when using a tripod we should disable the VR on the lenses. I prefer changing the menu option “AE/AF-L Lock Mode” to “AE&AF On/Off Switch”, so that simply pressing the AE-L button locks autofocus, without having to continue to hold it. Over the years we have gone from exposure guides on film boxes to handheld meters, then from there to in-built meters and now electronic viewfinders. You may find that these are exactly what you needed, or you may augment them to work better for your shooting style. MF Assist: This one is down to personal preference in terms of which visual aids you prefer when focusing manually. When Off, you can just rotate the camera to review vertical photos more effectively. Sign In. I am still learning intricacies of the X-H1. The Fujifilm X-H1 has more than 20 areas for improvement in this area, including 1080 / 120P high-speed video mode. The Fujifilm X-H1 is a larger mirrorless interchangeable-lens digital camera announced on February 15, 2018 by Fujifilm. ... Metering. ISO Dial Setting (H): 25600, since 51200 is too impractical to be useful in ordinary circumstances. Panoramas. Amazing Fuji X-H1 Deal ($999 or free with a lens)! Notice in the photograph below how nothing is blown out and detail is maintained throughout the entire frame. Attaching a Lens. Typically, there are other objects nearby that reflect light back into a shaded area and sculpt objects inside the shade. I will also reference the most powerful tool we have for determining the exposure we want for a given scene, the EVF. Get started on your creative journey with the best in creative education taught by world-class instructors. The discussion of the back of the camera should probably mention the touch screen. No other effect on your photos. Edit/Save Custom Setting: Allows you to create combinations of JPEG-only settings, such as sharpness, noise reduction, dynamic range, and so on, to form a particular look.